Fun Stuff > CLIKC
The PC-building/hardware knowledge thread
GuitarFreak:
All finished...it's green!
MrBlu:
Is that a nForce 7 board?
Also, which ras is that?
GuitarFreak:
It's a 790i mobo and swiftech MCR320 rad.
Llewellian:
Just a small advice from someone who studied in the field of Electrotechnics:
If you are going to replace your Power Supply Unit (PSU), always go for the "a little bigger" ones than you actually need.
Reason: PSUs run smoothest in the area (little distorted gauss bell) of 45-75% of their maximum output capability. If you know that your system needs around 420 Watts, never go for a 500 Wmax PSU. The heat produced by units is not linear with their power. And in the upper area of the output capability, it can come to peaks and quality fall-off in voltage and current (brownout). Which can massively disturb or even damage your system. A good portion of system crashes and bluescreens do come from peaks produced by your PSU.
A good PSU enhances your system. Think of it like a car. I mean, having a V8 Bigblock motor, racing gear and such and a Nissan Micra fuel pump?
And you are ready for "future" enhancements without having to think about your PSU before you build it in, like an extra harddrive or things like that.
The actual pricing is roughly 1-1.5 $ per 10 Watts, no matter what producer. And let me tell you, an extra 20 or 30 Dollars are really good investment on that.
Reed:
Of course, if you actually pay attention to peak power draw from a computer it's typically significantly lower than one would expect. Really, nobody needs a 750W PSU unless you're running tri-SLI or Xfire. A typical midrange computer with something like a C2D or Athlon X2 and HD4850 will often draw around 200W under load. It goes the other way too. You don't want to buy an 850W PSU and be running it at 20% load, decreasing its efficiency.
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