Hey, man, loved the arcade arc. I personally thought the photos turned out great, but maybe that's just me. Anyways, I don't know what you're doing, but keep it up. Looks like you maybe fixed the problem already? And if whatever you're doing still won't work in some light settings, I have a couple of more ideas:
It's cheaper to use digital, since you can delete what you don't like and have that space back, but if you have low-light problems again, or fast-motion problems, I would suggest getting a film camera with a light meter and automatic exposure time, then buy really fast film, 1600 or more, which your average digital can't do. Then, stuff'll be sharp in lower light. Of course, aperature and zoom considerations still apply. I would say, use the widest angle you can, because more light gets on the detector that way. Then, you can zoom digitally on ye olde computer.
Well, if you're ever in the market for a new camera, I reccommend pawn shops. I got an easily $800 camera and lens set at a pawnbroker a couple of weeks ago for $80, just because it was used and a little old. The aperature and exposure are automatic though, and it came with a 300mm lens, fisheye lens, and I slapped on my old 28-70 lens for good measure. So now I'm snapping me come great high-def photos of things going by at 80mph (in the "slow" lane). But my point is that switching to film can be cheap, and then you can have even higher ISO than your average digital, still automatic. (Except for the focus, unfortunately). Otherwise, if you're shopping for a new digital camera, there's one, the "Canon Powershot S5 IS" which, while expensive, offers all of the above, with autofocus, on a digital platform.
Just figured I'd try to help out in case you ever wind up taking pictures somewhere even darker, like in a lasertag arena (can you do that, man? That would be great).
