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[Jace]

WATCH THIS LINK: PAINTING
ASK QUESTIONS IF YOU DON'T GET IT.

I am here to help you.

[the_pied_piper]

For the base coat why can you not just use a large brush and paint the miniature in one stroke?

[Jace]

Excellent question: You don't want to obscure too much of the detail by applying too much paint in one go. Also, by using a smaller brush, you can leave a bit of black between different areas (for example, between straps and skin or armor and skin) to create a natural shading effect.

[Boro_Bandito]

Its true though, I usually use a larger hair brush than that for applaying the detail, the brush you were using there is usually about the size I get when I'm applying highlights to the model. I wish I still had my paint and brush kits, I had a five-hair little detail brush that was the best thing in the world. Of course, I haven't painted any warhammer or similar miniatures stuff in quite some time, like 4 years at least. I think I've got a poorly half-painted dwarf army somewhere in my closet...

Edit: The black basecoat is good for evil creatures, but for the "good guy" types I usually use a white base-coat with an ink wash. Its not as forgiving to the eyes as black paint is when you mess up or don't get enough paint on, but it shows in the end.

[Jace]

That is the brush that GW states is their "basecoat brush" I also have one of their "tank brush" sized brushes, I am used to painting entire models using just the basecoat brush or standard brush. Including fiddly details like eyes and teeth.

Basically, you don't need 9 different brushes to paint a model. Just one or two high quality ones. Protip: if you are spending less than a dollar on your brushes you are spending too little, if you are spending more than $4 per brush, you are spending too much.

[öde]

Needs more happy little accidents.

[Boro_Bandito]

There are a few typos in my original post there, I meant a larger hair brush for applying the base coat over the primer, not the details.

I agree that you don't have to have a ton of expensive brushes, but I like to switch up sizes out of boredom, using the smallest hair brush to paint the entire model can get really tedious really fast, and generally I only spend any amount of time on unique monsters/heroes or smaller sized groups. for the blocks of soldiers I can usually paint five in about an hour, the quality is admittedly less but they just aren't as important.

[Jace]

You are absolutely right. The fact of the matter is that what I am painting here is all just below "showcase" level of painting. These are models that I am spending about 3 hours per model on. When I paint rank and file infantry, I grab a big brush and drybrush highlights.

[Alex C]

Back when I owned some minis, I was super, super fussy about every model. I just couldn't help myself. Too bad I had picked Imperial Guard and Tyranids; not good choices for the borderline OCD perfectionist set. Even if you put a lot of work into the rank and file, most people won't really notice. If I ever get back into things, I'll probably pick up some Ogre Kingdoms pieces since you can spend an awful lot of points on relatively few minis and because the figures are actually big enough to potentially show off some detail.

[Jace]

I painted up some ogres that I ended up trading to a friend, they were extremely detailed and I loved every bit of painting them. I did like 9 different skin tones just to see how they'd look and also added bright blue tattoos and different colored pants as contrast. Never won a game, but boy did those models look great.

AND NOW, FUR: (pics later)

pick a base color for the fur, I used graveyard earth, its a lighter tone, but it will contrast well with darker skin, you can pick darker tones to contrast with lighter skin.


I had to shade the fur on this model to make it match others that I painted over a year ago (I do not remember the colors I used on them). So I used a devlun mud wash on the fur.

Next I mixed a bit of bleached bone with the graveyard earth to get a midtone for the fur. I overbrushed/drybrushed this.

Overbrushing is where you have some paint on your brush, but not enough to seep into the recesses. Drybrushing is when you have almost no paint on your brush and then you lightly brush the model back and forth, it works well on textured areas, but can sometimes leave the model looking chalky. These are great techniques to create effective highlighting as a beginning painter.


Next I use pure bleached bone as a light overbrush/drybrush (I use both methods together and a mix of the two methods now so it is very hard to describe in words my method) for the final highlight of the fur.


I look for any spots that have too much lightness and tone them down with my original color or my midtone color. Then I do a final highlight of skull white mixed in with bleached bone as the final highlights, hitting only the highest spots

And that's the easiest way to paint fur.


Note, I almost always try to mix a cream color into my warm colors rather than pure white, pure white will create some odd tones, while the cream will keep them warm. This is untrue if mixing cool colors, then you WANT to add some white because that will help it to stay a cool color, you can also mix a very light grey.

Browns can be a sort of neutral tone, so you want to see how the brown is made up, if you water down the paint and paint it along a white napkin or paper you'll see if it is a warm or cool brown. Most browns are warm, and work well when adding the cream color into them.

[Boro_Bandito]

Damnit, if you keep talking about painting them I'm going to want to get back into warhammer.