Currently in Venice, with my wife, mum and sister. This is the most tourist-stricken city I've ever visited. Certainly, I've been to cities with larger tourist crowds, but they've always also offered something beyond the ordinary tourist experience. Here, it's been nearly impossible to avoid tourist traps. The food is almost universally tourist-adjusted, but some restaurants are happy to serve more authentic fare upon request. People have been very friendly
we decided to go with Airbnb this time and it's been excellent. Incredible apartment that I suspect is only used by visitors but still feels very welcoming and home-y. Airbnb was good when we last used it a few years ago but even better now, and my regrets about spending my $$$ on other stocks are stronger than ever
we're in a slightly less touristy area with better food.
Getting here was a surprisingly pleasant experience (apart from pubic hair in every urinal, see WTF-thread) up until the point where we discovered that cabs only take you to like one central location from where you have to walk. We love walking, but my mum can't walk very far at a time.
The city itself is quite lovely although our exploration has been slightly hampered by thunderstorms (also lovely, when you're indoors). I must confess that, as old cities go, I still kinda prefer Visby, but this place is cool. Many opportunities for Doge-jokes.
The best experiences so far have centered around gelato. We found a couple of places that are universally well-regarded by both locals and visitors, and god damn. I could eat that stuff all day every day. This is the first time I've understood the point of fiori di latte.
Mobile data and GPS work fairly well (thank you once again, EU roaming regulations) and wifi is otherwise fairly ubiquitous. There are some advantages to getting 25 million tourists every year.
My friends who've lived in Italy were unanimous in their recommendation to forego visiting Venice in favor of a long list of more pleasant and less touristy cities. I get that, but this has always been a dream of my mother's and she seems very happy
in spite of all the bustle, it is surprisingly romantic, and there's a pretty good vibe. Unlike other touristy places, tourists here are polite, quiet and well-behaved. Haven't come across any intolerable children so far, for example--only cool ones.
The Biennale was a disappointment. We went at the wrong time, will post a video of the worst part of this experience. I suspect a trip to Venice should be planned in such a way that you can experience the Biennale properly. Carole Feuerman's sculptures in the garden 5 minutes from the Biennale were more satisfying.
Anyway, now we're off to enjoy our last day here. Still holding on to a desperate hope of finding truly excellent coffee.
