THESE FORUMS NOW CLOSED (read only)

  • 28 Mar 2024, 13:26
  • Welcome, Guest
Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  
Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16 ... 21   Go Down

Author Topic: Bickering about bicycles, now with occasional tips about motorised vehicles  (Read 242227 times)

Masterpiece

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,364
  • No time for Claireification

You got tested on a closed course? I drove for an hour through the busy city, and was sent on the Autobahn.

nekowafer

  • ASDFSFAALYG8A@*& ^$%O
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,925
  • fuck the secret sauce I'm gothalicious with cheese

You are correct, cesium. And yeah you're not supposed to drive on the shoulder ever, except in the case of a problem or something like that.

So far the only thing I've paid for is the actual driving class, which was $400, and includes 6 hours of driving with an instructor. I've done one of those so far, plus the in-classroom work. I took the test to get my learner's which was free and easy, and I got one or two wrong. I have two more behind the wheel lessons and then I can schedule my full driving test. Since I'm over 25 I only need like 14 hours behind the wheel before I get my license, but younger than that you need 60 hours, all documented.

I believe the license costs $25 or some such, and then the big expense is the car, plus tags and title and inspection and whatnot.
Logged
what she said was sad, but then, all the rejections she's had, to pretend to be happy could only be idiocy

cesium133

  • Preventing third impact
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,148
  • Has a fucked-up browser history
    • Cesium Comics

Yup. This is the course I was tested on. The test basically consisted of driving down a hill, stopping at a stop sign, turning right, stopping at another stop sign, turning to avoid some cones, and parallel parking. I aced it on the first try. My sister somehow ended up taking five tries.  :psyduck:
Logged
The nerdy comic I update sometimes: Cesium Comics

Unofficial character tag thingy for QC

nekowafer

  • ASDFSFAALYG8A@*& ^$%O
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,925
  • fuck the secret sauce I'm gothalicious with cheese

I'm going to have to actually drive on the street for my test. Not that I mind. I did a lot of highway driving this weekend and did fairly well. I can do it :D
Logged
what she said was sad, but then, all the rejections she's had, to pretend to be happy could only be idiocy

Masterpiece

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,364
  • No time for Claireification

I'm going to have to actually drive on the street for my test.

I really don't understand the emphasis there. Isn't that supposed to be the place you're tested in?! You're driving a car after all, the second highest cause of death (after wars). It makes perfect sense to be tested in real-life conditions.

I don't properly remember the amount of classes I had, but suffice it to say, they were a lot. Expensive too, I might add.
But I paid it all from money I earned myself, which is something I am rather proud of.

bhtooefr

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,180
  • ⌘-⌥-⌃-N

American tests are incredibly easy for the level of danger you put yourself and others in.

Here's the manual for Ohio licenses, there's a 10 question sample test in the back (and you take a 40 question test, four options per question, select one IIRC, must get 75%+ to pass). Edit: HELPS IF I PUT THE LINK IN HERE, DURR. http://publicsafety.ohio.gov/links/hsy7607.pdf

It also covers the maneuverability test, which is basically driving forward through, and backing through, a cone course set up to simulate parallel parking, and a little on the road test.

Here's the route of my road test:

http://goo.gl/3BfVs

And my opinions on licensing standards here: http://bhtooefr.org/blog/2013/06/12/thoughts-on-drivers-licensing-standards-in-the-us/

And, because this is the cycling thread, a rant on transportational cycling gear that's been brewing for a while: http://bhtooefr.org/blog/2013/06/25/a-rant-about-transportational-cycling-gear-in-the-us/
« Last Edit: 25 Jun 2013, 16:16 by bhtooefr »
Logged

bainidhe_dub

  • Scrabble hacker
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,445
    • tumblr

Masterpiece:

I think it depends which MVA (Motor Vehicle Administration) location you test at. I got my license in Maryland as well, at a different location from Cesium but with the same course. It looks like Baltimore, where I assume Neko is going, doesn't have a course. They're only testing you on specific technical things - look both ways and use your turn signal, parallel park, do a three-point turn, stuff like that.

The learner's permit is only good for a year, and iirc you need to get 7 out of 10 questions correct. I had to get three, first because I hadn't finished my 60 hours and then because I failed my first driving test and couldn't schedule another before the second one expired. I had to do the driving test three times, too. The parallel parking fucked me up and I ran out of time.
Logged
I am lurking so hard right now. You have no idea.

nekowafer

  • ASDFSFAALYG8A@*& ^$%O
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,925
  • fuck the secret sauce I'm gothalicious with cheese

Bingo. I think a lot of places do the driving course, but the MVA where I'm going doesn't have one, and I think it's actually a new policy that you have to do at least half the test on actual streets.

I think this is a much better idea than a course, for sure, but that's how they do it.
Logged
what she said was sad, but then, all the rejections she's had, to pretend to be happy could only be idiocy

Akima

  • WoW gold miner on break
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,523
  • ** 妇女能顶半边天 **

This is long. If you don't care about driver licensing in New South Wales, Australia, don't open the spoiler.
(click to show/hide)

And, because this is the cycling thread, a rant on transportational cycling gear that's been brewing for a while: http://bhtooefr.org/blog/2013/06/25/a-rant-about-transportational-cycling-gear-in-the-us/
Exactly the same situation applies in Australia. There is precisely one shop in Sydney that specialises in transport cycling, and they are not cheap. Otherwise it is cycle-sports all the way. The problem for the cycle-trade is that cycle-commuters etc. are a niche market here. If a distributor imports a container-load of stuff from Europe, they'll have to pay import-duty, charge sales-tax, tie up their capital etc., when they know that people like us order direct from overseas vendors, don't have to pay sales-tax, and normally the cost is below the import-duty threshold. When I ask my LBS for European gear, they simply tell me, right up front, to order direct over the internet.

Incidentally, I do wish people would lay off the Lycra-hate. I commute in cycling-gear because it is well-suited for riding, and in a hot, hilly city I often arrive at my destination drenched in sweat. Summer or winter, riding hard in my rain-suit is another exercise in perspiration (Goretex breathes? Don't make me laugh...). I shower and change at work. Sure, I never wear replica pro-team kit, because that is lame, but there are good reasons to ride in Lycra.
Logged
"I would rather have questions that can't be answered, than answers that can't be questioned." Richard Feynman

bhtooefr

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,180
  • ⌘-⌥-⌃-N

Lycra certainly has its uses, and it is comfortable to ride in. Some lycra disdain probably did leak into that post, but I didn't mean to knock lycra per se, just note that sometimes it's not the right tool for the job, and the insistence on it even when it's inappropriate is misguided. (Sometimes it is appropriate, and it sounds like your commute is one of those times.)

Also, re: your comment about the NSW government thinking kids are safer on motorcycles and scooters than in cars... well, it depends on who's safer.

Everyone else is definitely safer, especially with the power restrictions that are in place (although, they don't seem to legislate power directly, more displacements and specific models).

The operator may well be less safe - then again, that would help discourage distracted riding (and later distracted driving).
Logged

Akima

  • WoW gold miner on break
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,523
  • ** 妇女能顶半边天 **

Everyone else is definitely safer, especially with the power restrictions that are in place (although, they don't seem to legislate power directly, more displacements and specific models).
Apart from the maximum capacity limit of 660cc, the key number is power-to-weight ratio. It must not exceed 150 kilowatts per tonne. The list of small capacity bikes that are banned for learners are all two-strokes with high power-to-weight ratios.

By the way, I looked at your blog posting on your Dahon folder, and that is a nice bike. Mudguards (fenders), hub gears, sprung saddle, rack & bag, serious lights (though I'm not personally a big fan of dynamo systems); I'm nodding with approval here. I would add a rubber mudflap to each mudguard, at least in front, because the mudguards never come down far enough, and the front wheel sprays muck over your chainwheel, chain, and bottom-bracket. A rear flap is less necessary, unless you ride in a group. And yes, as you suggest, get some better pedals; I normally ride on Shimano PD-M324 so that I can cycle comfortably in ordinary shoes when I'm just pootling around, or clip in with cycling shoes when I want to ride hard.
Logged
"I would rather have questions that can't be answered, than answers that can't be questioned." Richard Feynman

snalin

  • Vulcan 3-D Chess Master
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3,540
  • You may Baste me

[driving exam questions]

Some of the answers are horrible/hilarious. The best one was probably:
"2. Continue at the same speed because the children will certainly stop"
Logged
I am a cowboy / on a steel horse I ride
I am wanted / Dead or alive

bhtooefr

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,180
  • ⌘-⌥-⌃-N

Yeah, last time I rode it on wet surfaces, I did notice that about spray coming off the bottom of the fender (my trike's fenders actually do have flaps from the factory). I'll come up with something eventually.

The pedals... the trick is that folding pedals make it smaller, and AFAIK, there is no folding SPD pedal. And, I'm not a huge fan of clipless on a bicycle, especially given that this bike is actually my pootling bike, the trike is what I normally use if I'm doing longer rides. (Although, I'll also be using it as a rainy-day commuter once I get my rain cape, so...) The trike, clipless is nearly mandatory for safety, is very nice for comfort (no need to constantly press against the pedals to keep your feet on them), and I don't have to worry about unclipping at stops anyway, so it's quite nice.

Oh, and re: the dynamo setup, it's actually only running the front light. This is a hub dynamo, not a sidewall dynamo, which reduces drag and eliminates tire wear and slippage. The headlight is switchable, and has a standlight (so it stays lit on lower brightness for ~5 minutes when stopped).
« Last Edit: 26 Jun 2013, 06:48 by bhtooefr »
Logged

Akima

  • WoW gold miner on break
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,523
  • ** 妇女能顶半边天 **

The pedals... the trick is that folding pedals make it smaller, and AFAIK, there is no folding SPD pedal.
You might want to look at the MKS AR-2 EZY quick-release pedal system. I have not used it myself, but MKS stuff has a good reputation, and the users I've spoken to rate the system highly. You remove your old pedals and replace them with the "sockets" into which MKS pedals then lock. There are platform and SPD pedals available for the system, and you can buy the sockets separately, allowing you to swap pedals quickly between bikes. Bike Friday sells them, but you might be able to get them cheaper elsewhere.

Quote
Oh, and re: the dynamo setup, it's actually only running the front light. This is a hub dynamo, not a sidewall dynamo, which reduces drag and eliminates tire wear and slippage. The headlight is switchable, and has a standlight (so it stays lit on lower brightness for ~5 minutes when stopped).
Yeah, I could see that it was a hub dynamo (the only sort I would consider), and that you run a  battery-powered rear light. You have a nice set-up altogether. My problem with dynamo systems is more fundamental; I just don't think they are powerful enough, no matter how cleverly the optics are designed to make the best use of the rather limited power available from a bike generator.
Logged
"I would rather have questions that can't be answered, than answers that can't be questioned." Richard Feynman

ankhtahr

  • GET ON THE NIGHT TRAIN
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,700
  • A hacker spathe night owl

Here in Germany it's necessary to have dynamo lighting in front and rear. You are allowed to add battery lighting to it, but dynamo lighting is required if you're cycling on public roads. As headlight I have a B&M Lumotec IQ Fly Senso plus on a hub dynamo. More expensive than the Lyt, but also far brighter. I'm happy with it.

In other news, I have a flat on my rear tire. Again. Seriously, it's been only three weeks since the last one. Why do I have these frickin heavy and expensive Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires if they don't help at all? I still have to take a closer look at them, maybe it's even the valve which was ripped of. Had that once before. Also I might even need a new wheel. Don't know how I got that dent, but it's not good. Also the sides are pretty worn down now, because of the brakes.
Logged
Quote from: Terry Pratchett
He had the look of a lawn mower just after the grass had organised a workers' collective.

bhtooefr

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,180
  • ⌘-⌥-⌃-N

A damaged wheel likely means it's time to replace it.

Rim tape could've slipped, and there's some things that even Marathon Pluses can't stop.

Also, the modern dynamo lights are actually doing pretty amazing things. But, not quite as amazing as my Philips Saferide 80 battery light, I'll admit - but that thing is seriously overkill (can outshine car headlights with how well it places the light) on high power for my riding, in reality. I'd be quite happy with the Saferide 60.

Of course, the Saferide 80 can be, um, modified: http://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/verlichting/dynamo_led_driver/index_en.html
Logged

GarandMarine

  • Awakened
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 10,307
  • Kawaii in the streets, Senpai in the sheets

If I lived any where with decent public transit I'd ditch the car for the train and one of these babies.



The folded up Tokyo Citizen bike, not the girl. Though I doubt I'd complain about both. I saw a fair amount of those folding bikes in Japan and found them to be quite brilliant. Outside of moving stock in trucks or living out in the country side I really can't think of a decent reason to own a car in Japan because of their jaw dropping incredible metro system.
Logged
I built the walls that make my life a prison, I built them all and cannot be forgiven... ...Sold my soul to carry your vendetta, So let me go before you can regret it, You've made your choice and now it's come to this, But that's price you pay when you're a monster with no name.

PhillipFlowers

  • Guest

Alright, looks like this is the cycling thread, even though this will be a massive necropost...

Quick interlude on Ohio cycling laws:
  • Passing in a double yellow has been explicitly legal since 2006, if it is safe to do so, and the vehicle you are passing is going less than 1/2 the speed limit.
  • Ohio requires that motor vehicles maintain a rate of speed that does not impede traffic - note that bicycles are not motor vehicles. That said, if traffic can't safely pass me, I'll pull off when it's safe to do so.
  • Ohio requires that cyclists stay as far right as practicable. This is widely interpreted as taking the lane any time the rideable (this means not riding in the marked shoulder or the door zone) lane is less than 14 feet wide - the minimum safe width for a cyclist and a vehicle to share a lane by AAHSTO standards. In certain situations, even 14 feet isn't enough
  • Ohio does not require that cyclists keep to the sidewalk, although it is allowed (except in municipalities that don't allow it). Personally, I avoid it, although I have done it, at walking speed, when the road wasn't practical.
  • Freeways are dedicated to motor vehicles with at least 5 bhp, and not farm vehicles. I may have once taken advantage of the fact that my Golf TDI has issues with fuel injection quantity, and sooted a roadie that got on the freeway, when there's an excellent trail that PARALLELS the freeway in question!

Regarding roads that are unsafe to cycle on due to conditions such as blind corners and hills... IMO, it's irresponsible to ride on such roads due to the extreme risk of personal danger, but if they're the only way to get where you want to go reasonably, then it's justifiable - and, in many of those areas, getting dedicated cycling infrastructure is about as likely as the government buying everyone a holopony.

Re: Velomobiles, most of the popular ones are HEAVY. Like 75 pounds. But, once you get them going, as long as you don't have to go up a hill, they can get going QUITE fast, due to their greatly reduced drag (which is why most velomobiles are Dutch), and they've got weather protection (even the open cockpit ones - there are ways to get it).

Myself, this is my cycle:


TerraTrike Path 8-speed, with a Sturmey-Archer X-RF8(W), no-name disc brakes on the front only (rear braking on a trike is a BAD, bad idea - it'll get you a nasty crash quickly), rack, fenders, Philips SafeRide 80 front light and the Philips led lights (StVZO compliant front lighting is the ONLY way to go for see-with lighting - mind you, be-seen lighting is a little different - and this is a damn good setup), and a Garmin Edge 205 (because I couldn't be bothered running cabling for a speed sensor, and wireless sucks especially on a 'bent, so I went for GPS so a sensor wasn't needed). I use Arkel RT-40 panniers (they're on backwards in that pic  :lol:), and not pictured are the Performance Bike el cheapo platform/SPD combo pedals (really, on a trike, you REALLY want some sort of foot attachment - you spend a lot of energy just keeping your feet on the pedals otherwise, and if your foot slips off, the trike will try to run you over, and that HURTS (luckily, the one time that happened to me, before going SPD, I was going slowly, so I didn't break my leg).

I'm slow, I usually average 12 mph (not including time stopped), but I'll blame the 40 psi tires for that. I'll switch to Schwalbe Trykers when these wear out.
[/u]

Nice vehicles are coming now days.. Pretty efficient and energy saving.. I am looking to get one such cycle soon:)
« Last Edit: 03 Aug 2013, 21:46 by PhillipFlowers »
Logged

jwhouk

  • Awakened
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 11,022
  • The Valley of the Sun

Update - apparently Imageshack lost my original photo:



This thing's not a recumbent, but a seated street touring-bike. Haven't had it out recently - something I should do soon, I'd guess.
Logged
"Character is what you are in the Dark." - D.L. Moody
There is no joke that can be made online without someone being offended by it.
Life's too short to be ashamed of how you were born.
Just another Joe like 46

ankhtahr

  • GET ON THE NIGHT TRAIN
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,700
  • A hacker spathe night owl

Hmm. I don't think I'd like something like this. I like my bikes with large wheels, especially when sitting upwards. This thing looks almost unstable to me…

Also I consider my Brooks saddle to be quite comfortable.
Logged
Quote from: Terry Pratchett
He had the look of a lawn mower just after the grass had organised a workers' collective.

jwhouk

  • Awakened
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 11,022
  • The Valley of the Sun

Funny you should say that: the first time I took it out for a test ride at the bike dealer, I nearly flipped it because - you guessed it - the ride wasn't stable. That's my biggest complaint about it: you have to hold on to the handlebars firmly with at least one hand.

I don't think I've replaced the rear view mirror yet, which will really prevent me from taking it back on the streets.
Logged
"Character is what you are in the Dark." - D.L. Moody
There is no joke that can be made online without someone being offended by it.
Life's too short to be ashamed of how you were born.
Just another Joe like 46

Barmymoo

  • Mentat
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,926

I need to get a fairly bright, good-quality light (definitely a front one, probably a back one as well) for my bike, which I can attach despite the fact that I have a large rounded wicker basket on the front and therefore can't put the light bracket on my handle bars. I'd also prefer it if it was tricky to steal, either because it is very hard to remove, or because it's really easy to remove and therefore I can just remove it every time I stop somewhere.

Any suggestions? I also don't want to spend a fortune on it, but I need proper lighting if I'm going to cycle to uni and placement in the winter.
Logged
There's this really handy "other thing" I'm going to write as a footnote to my abstract that I can probably explore these issues in. I think I'll call it my "dissertation."

ankhtahr

  • GET ON THE NIGHT TRAIN
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,700
  • A hacker spathe night owl

light bracket on my handle bars

This one confused me.

Maybe it's because lights are mandatory on all bikes in Germany, but here we have light mounts which are screwed to the mount of the front mudguard.

I don't really know what you consider "hard to remove", but lights which are mounted that way are usually mounted with nuts and bolts.

I don't really know much about which lights are available where you live, but the German company B&M (Busch & Müller) makes some good ones. Especially the Lumotec Lyt line is very well made, bright and rather affordable.

p.s.: I just realised that I, in my local way of thinking, assumed that "bike light" = "dynamo light". Ahem. Well. Hub Dynamos are great!  :roll:
Logged
Quote from: Terry Pratchett
He had the look of a lawn mower just after the grass had organised a workers' collective.

Barmymoo

  • Mentat
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,926

This is the bike I have: http://www.bikes2udirect.com/B2711.html

The basket I have is a large one, which fills the space between the top of the handle bars and the top of the front mudguard. To me, the logical place to put a light is in the middle of the handle bars, so that it is high and central. That's where most bike lights are, here at least.

I have had a dynamo light before. I disliked it, because the brightness varied depending on how hard I was pedalling. I want a light that is constantly bright enough to see properly on dimly lit/unlit roads. I don't know the difference between the two types of dynamo you were talking about before, though.
Logged
There's this really handy "other thing" I'm going to write as a footnote to my abstract that I can probably explore these issues in. I think I'll call it my "dissertation."

Carl-E

  • Awakened
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 10,346
  • The distilled essence of Mr. James Beam himself.
Logged
When people try to speak a gut reaction, they end up talking out their ass.

ankhtahr

  • GET ON THE NIGHT TRAIN
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,700
  • A hacker spathe night owl

Well, most bottle dynamos are really bad in my experience. Hub dynamos (which are built into the hub of the front wheel) are much more efficient, and you barely notice that they're there. The brightness is almost constant, the only time you'll really notice that it's not battery powered is when you're starting or stopping as hub dynamos deliver short bursts of energy, which will result in the light flickering, but like I said that's only noticeable when you're starting or stopping. Also the brightness of modern LED lights is not dependant on the speed you're going.

On the positioning of lights in Germany:
(click to show/hide)
Logged
Quote from: Terry Pratchett
He had the look of a lawn mower just after the grass had organised a workers' collective.

Akima

  • WoW gold miner on break
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,523
  • ** 妇女能顶半边天 **

I need to get a fairly bright, good-quality light (definitely a front one, probably a back one as well) for my bike, which I can attach despite the fact that I have a large rounded wicker basket on the front and therefore can't put the light bracket on my handle bars.

I am going to concentrate on the mounting issue first. I don't know exactly how your basket is mounted, so a certain amount of guessing is required.

If your basket is so large that it precludes a fork-crown mounting bracket like this (basically the sort shown in Ankhtahr's pics), you might need to mount your light on the outside front fork of your bike (Pic from USA so the light is on the wrong side for the UK). Minoura makes a mount called the Minoura Bésso LH-50 Fork Mount (BTW, you don't have to mount the light as low as they show in their pics, and wheel-hub level lights have some problems). Another option is the  Issimo Designs NOB XL which is sold as a mounting for bike-computers etc. but is quite strong enough for mounting many lights too. I see that your bike has "direct pull" cantilever brakes, and Problem Solvers makes brake-boss light mountings.

Your rear light should not be a problem, because you have a rack on the back. Normally there is a light-mounting built into the rack. Get something like this or this, and bolt it to your rack. And fit a nice big red rear reflector too, if your light doesn't have one built in.

Bicycle lighting generally is a very deep rabbit-hole. How much night-riding do you expect to be doing, and on what sort of streets? I'm guessing UK urban with good street-lighting? How much motor traffic do you expect? Basically, the more traffic there is, the brighter lights you need. If you ride regularly at night, you will probably not want to go with a light that runs on disposable batteries, except as a backup. The realistic options are dynamo or rechargeable battery systems. Unfortunately neither is all that cheap for good quality.

Hub dynamos are the only ones worth considering IMHO, but they are not cheap, and don't forget that you will have to pay for a new, or at least rebuilt, front wheel as well. The German Schmidt is considered "best of breed", but I have heard that Shimano's stuff is close and a lot cheaper. I'm not a fan of dynamo lighting, and don't use it myself, so seek advice elsewhere.

Rechargeable lights come in two main formats: "integrated" with the lamp and battery in a single unit like a torch (USA:flashlight), and "battery-pack" where the battery is in a separate case linked to the lamp by a cable (the more powerful, long lasting, systems are usually of this type). Batteries are heavy, so integrated lights can put more of a strain on the mounting bracket. The lamp of a battery-pack system is lighter, and so less hard on the mounting bracket, but you have to find somewhere to fit the battery, which usually straps to the frame, sits in a bag/basket, or slots into a bottle-cage.

I do not recommend head-mounted lights as your only lighting for road use. It might not be legal (lots of places insist that the bicycle be equipped with lights for legal night riding), you wave your light all over the place with every movement of your head, and you need to be careful about dazzling everyone you look at.

I am a rechargeable-battery girl, but it's difficult to make specific recommendations about what to buy in the UK, and you might want to talk to your LBS. In integrated lights, I've heard good things about Trelock products, especially the LS950, the Busch & Müller IXON, and also the Cateye Nano Shot. In battery-pack systems, the Nite Rider MiNewt would be a good choice for commuting.
Logged
"I would rather have questions that can't be answered, than answers that can't be questioned." Richard Feynman

bhtooefr

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,180
  • ⌘-⌥-⌃-N

I like small wheels, but you can get a recumbent or a crank forward (sometimes called a semi-recumbent) with larger wheels than that.

Myself, I prefer hub dynamos. With good lights, they have what's called a "standlight", which is a capacitor-based system to keep the lights on (although dimmer) at a stop. A good hub dynamo will get to full brightness at quite low speeds.

Unfortunately, my recumbent trike doesn't support a hub dynamo, so I'm using a Philips Saferide 80 battery-powered light. It's pretty awesome, although battery life on high power is mediocre. Low power is acceptable, though.

There are aftermarket accessory mounts that you can mount to your handlebar, so you can raise the light up above the basket. Also, depending on what the basket is, you might be able to get a bracket for it fabbed up.
Logged

Barmymoo

  • Mentat
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,926

Thank you for all the advice, that's really helpful. I was leaning towards a hub dynamo but if I have to get the front wheel rebuilt that's not really an option financially. I can possibly wait a few months and ask for a decent quality bike light as a Christmas gift, but I'd have to find some interim solution for the winter months before December.

I haven't cycled the road route to uni yet, and I don't even know where I'll be going for hospital placements, but one of the places I'm intending to cycle in dusk at least, if not in the dark, is the canal towpath. So I'd need very good lights for that, since I suspect it's unlit.
Logged
There's this really handy "other thing" I'm going to write as a footnote to my abstract that I can probably explore these issues in. I think I'll call it my "dissertation."

Redball

  • Born in a Nalgene bottle
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3,244
  • What's disease? Where?

A dimly lit canal path! Shouldn't you ride with some kind of flotation gear? You could call it -- I dunno, maybe a May West?
Logged

jwhouk

  • Awakened
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 11,022
  • The Valley of the Sun

Redball: the Pun Jar wants to have a word with you...
Logged
"Character is what you are in the Dark." - D.L. Moody
There is no joke that can be made online without someone being offended by it.
Life's too short to be ashamed of how you were born.
Just another Joe like 46

Carl-E

  • Awakened
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 10,346
  • The distilled essence of Mr. James Beam himself.

Vest!  May VEST!!

Nevermind. 

And the headlight was a joke. 

I use an old CatEye brand headlight that straps to the handlebar.  Don't know if it would be high enough to see over the basket, though.  And they've got much nicer lights now than the one I have... all bright LED's, some rechargeable ones.  Mine's basically a handlebar mounted incandescent torch that uses two C batteries... from 1989.  Still works well, though! 
Logged
When people try to speak a gut reaction, they end up talking out their ass.

bhtooefr

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,180
  • ⌘-⌥-⌃-N

I haven't cycled the road route to uni yet, and I don't even know where I'll be going for hospital placements, but one of the places I'm intending to cycle in dusk at least, if not in the dark, is the canal towpath. So I'd need very good lights for that, since I suspect it's unlit.
I'll note that the strongest lighting requirements are generally when riding amongst cars, in unlit areas.

Lit areas, less lighting is needed just because there's other light to help out. Unlit areas without car traffic, less lighting is needed, because you aren't having to compete with the light from car headlights (to be seen, or to see).
Logged

Lupercal

  • Bling blang blong blung
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,041
  • In conception since 1991

Someone stole my fairly new bicycle.

The weird thing is, after a new chain and a bit of TLC, I'm now using my Mum's old bike that has to be about 15 years old. The ride is amazingly more comfortable than my old (new/cheap) bicycle, and the fact it's been outside a while and rusted in almost every once aesthetically pleasing place means it is deterring thieves. Huzzah!

Anybody got any other stories, or tips, on bike theft (or avoidance of this)? My bike is chained up at a railway station for about 12 hours a day between my arrival/departure.
Logged

bhtooefr

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,180
  • ⌘-⌥-⌃-N

Conventional wisdom is, U-lock through the triangle AND through the rear wheel.

If in a high-risk situation, add a (good, with lock meant for it, not a normal padlock) chain through the triangle and front wheel.

Also, store the lock(s) there if at all possible, that way you can use much heavier locks.

Uglify the bike, although you've already done that unintentionally.

Park next to more attractive, less secure bikes. You don't have to outrun the bear, just the other guy.
Logged

Akima

  • WoW gold miner on break
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,523
  • ** 妇女能顶半边天 **

Your bike-parking situation is high-risk, I'm afraid; it would be nice if railways gave some attention to bike security at stations, but mostly they don't. So, all of the above, but:
  • Read this. Yes, it is from a lock-manufacturer's site, but it is still good advice.
  • Don't forget to lock your bike to a sturdy fixed object, whether the bike-rack, lamp-post or whatever. Don't laugh; I've seen locked bikes that a thief could just pick up and carry away.
  • Consider getting a quick-release front wheel. That way, you can quickly take it off, and place it alongside the rear wheel and lock both wheels to the frame and bike-rack. If your bike has "lawyer lips" on the front forks, file them off, and get your LBS to show you how to use a quick-release correctly, or just watch this video.
  • Don't get obsessed by weight if you're a commuter/transport cyclist.
Logged
"I would rather have questions that can't be answered, than answers that can't be questioned." Richard Feynman

bhtooefr

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,180
  • ⌘-⌥-⌃-N

With the caveat that front disc brakes and quick releases are a horrible combination, and if you insist on doing it (no, doing the QR up correctly won't help you), lawyer lips will save your life.

The other thing is to consider a folding bike instead. Depending on your rail carrier's policies, you might be able to carry a folding bike onboard, and take it with you, and then store it indoors at your destination.
Logged

pwhodges

  • Admin emeritus
  • Awakened
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 17,241
  • I'll only say this once...
    • My home page

I don't take nearly that much care, and have had four bikes stolen in 60 years.  The first two were unlocked, the third was locked to itself only, and the fourth time was locked to railings, but I guess that the rather rusty lock hadn't latched properly.  Only two had been new purchases, one was secondhand, and one was assembled from bits off a scrap heap at school (I rode that for ten years, including all through uni - it's the only one I feel nostalgic about; it had a four-speed hub gear that I had restored from being rusted fully solid.). 

The first to go was my first bike, when I was seven years old - it was taken from the churchyard while I was at choir practice.  As the police station was just over the road, I went in and reported it stolen myself, and then they called my parents to collect me so I didn't have to walk home in the dark.

I also reverse the advice about having the chain out; I prefer to put it in, as that exposes the dérailleur to less risk of bashing and bending when the bike next to it is moved.
Logged
"Being human, having your health; that's what's important."  (from: Magical Shopping Arcade Abenobashi )
"As long as we're all living, and as long as we're all having fun, that should do it, right?"  (from: The Eccentric Family )

Akima

  • WoW gold miner on break
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,523
  • ** 妇女能顶半边天 **

I'll bet that four-speed hub was  Sturmey-Archer. I have hub gears on my bike because I think they are better for commuting/transport cycling, and one reason is that they are much less vulnerable to damage than derailleurs.

A very good point from bhtooefr about disk-brakes and quick-releases. I was thinking that an older bike would have rim brakes.
Logged
"I would rather have questions that can't be answered, than answers that can't be questioned." Richard Feynman

pwhodges

  • Admin emeritus
  • Awakened
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 17,241
  • I'll only say this once...
    • My home page

I'll bet that four-speed hub was  Sturmey-Archer.

Naturally!
Logged
"Being human, having your health; that's what's important."  (from: Magical Shopping Arcade Abenobashi )
"As long as we're all living, and as long as we're all having fun, that should do it, right?"  (from: The Eccentric Family )

ankhtahr

  • GET ON THE NIGHT TRAIN
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,700
  • A hacker spathe night owl

With my lock I'm more worried about somebody stealing my saddle than my bike. I've got a first generation Abus Bordo lock. In the newer generations (at least on the cheaper ones) they apparently replaced the more secure locks they used earlier with ordinary tumbler locks.

My bike lock has a key similar to this one (mine has several more tumblers):



When the German "Stiftung Warentest" (an organisation which tests various items independently) tested bike locks this one was much better than most of the U-locks they've tested, and better than every single cable lock.

I usually have this lock through the triangle, around a fixed object, through the rear wheel. I don't remove my front wheel, that would be a bit more difficult without a quick release and with the hub dynamo.
Logged
Quote from: Terry Pratchett
He had the look of a lawn mower just after the grass had organised a workers' collective.

Kugai

  • CIA Handler of Miss Melody Powers
  • Awakened
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 11,493
  • Crazy Kiwi Shoujo-Ai Fan
    • My Homepage

When I had my bike, I used to lock it up with 2 meters of this



with one of these.

Logged
James The Kugai 

You can never have too much Coffee.

Skewbrow

  • Duck attack survivor
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,960
  • damn it

  • Don't forget to lock your bike to a sturdy fixed object, whether the bike-rack, lamp-post or whatever. Don't laugh; I've seen locked bikes that a thief could just pick up and carry away.
This. But do consider the following (hopefully in your country this is irrelevant): in the 80s and 90s local insurance companies insisted that a bicycle theft claim should be accompanied by all the keys to a lock of a certified type that had to be permanently attached to the bike frame. Usually meaning that the lock woud be screwed/bolted to seat stays and thus only able to wrap around the rear wheel. I guess they were more worried about people forgetting to lock their bikes and/or false claims (if you used chain only, you had a harder time proving that you had not just been very careless). They have wisened up since I think. But, as evidence of this past, I present my wife's bike. That is still the only type of lock it has, but she rarely rides in the city, so risk of theft is very low (and it is obviously an unattractive target as an old bike). On my own bike I use an Abus U-lock that can reach around the front wheel, downtube and a railing/lamp post/rack.
Logged
QC  - entertaining you with regular shots in the butt since 2003.

Skewbrow

  • Duck attack survivor
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,960
  • damn it

I have hub gears on my bike because I think they are better for commuting/transport cycling, and one reason is that they are much less vulnerable to damage than derailleurs.
This may be true. I do not have any experience with hub gears. But I don't  want to try to service hub gears, whereas replacing a freewheel is relatively straightforward (with proper tools). I realize that your point may be that hub gears rarely need such maintenance.
Logged
QC  - entertaining you with regular shots in the butt since 2003.

pwhodges

  • Admin emeritus
  • Awakened
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 17,241
  • I'll only say this once...
    • My home page

The cogset isn't the issue, the dérailleur is because it's really quite delicate.  Hub gears just go on for ever, but I've got used to having a wider choice of gearing.
Logged
"Being human, having your health; that's what's important."  (from: Magical Shopping Arcade Abenobashi )
"As long as we're all living, and as long as we're all having fun, that should do it, right?"  (from: The Eccentric Family )

Pilchard123

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,131
  • I always name them Bitey.

IDK how relevant this is any more, but...

Logged
Piglet wondered how it was that every conversation with Eeyore seemed to go wrong.

Skewbrow

  • Duck attack survivor
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,960
  • damn it

Hmm. I still have the original 24-year-old rear derailleur on my Trek ATB. Either I have been lucky or I am missing something. I am not ruling out the possibility that its age is related to the fact that I spent a lot of time with its adjustment screws just last week. Time to experiment with the B-screw?  I vaguely recall once having accidentally turned it without knowing what it does :oops:

Regularly cleaning and lubing the rear derailleur is essential, but undoubtedly you do that as a matter of course.
Logged
QC  - entertaining you with regular shots in the butt since 2003.

pwhodges

  • Admin emeritus
  • Awakened
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 17,241
  • I'll only say this once...
    • My home page

It's fine if it doesn't get bashed - but if it does, you may be lucky or you may not (I've been not...).  Mine have never had that B-screw - it certainly would have helped.

As for the video about opening locks with a pen - I first heard about that with the Kryptonite brand of locks many years ago; it hurt their reputation significantly, and I think they stopped using that kind of key completely.
Logged
"Being human, having your health; that's what's important."  (from: Magical Shopping Arcade Abenobashi )
"As long as we're all living, and as long as we're all having fun, that should do it, right?"  (from: The Eccentric Family )

Akima

  • WoW gold miner on break
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,523
  • ** 妇女能顶半边天 **

Gear range in hubs is simply a matter of how much money you want to spend. The Rohloff Speedhub 14-speed will give you a range comparable to a mountain-bike triple-chainring, eight or nine sprocket set up, but it costs about $2000 here now. A Shimano Alfine 11-speed hub is under $500, while the 8-speed Alfine is under $300.00, and Shimano stuff is pretty good.

The only maintenance my hub requires is changing the oil once a year and replacing the occasional worn control cable. The whole unit is sealed against the weather, and much easier to keep clean and lubed than the typical eight or nine cog cluster and mech. Other plusses of hub gears are the ability to change gear while stationary (very handy for riding in city traffic), chain-retention is much better, you get a stronger rear wheel because the spokes are symmetrical on both sides, and you can typically always have a straight chainline from chainring to rear sprocket. The down-side of hub gears is that they are less efficient than equivalent derailleurs in some ratios, are slightly heavier, and tend to cost more up front. Oh, and hub-gear shifters can be difficult to fit on some designs of handlebar, especially drops or bullhorns.

I use a hardened steel chain in a fabric sleeve, and one of those Abus Discus locks too (though mine has a key more like ankhtahr's pic) because the frame design and wheel size of my bike make a U-lock impractical.
Logged
"I would rather have questions that can't be answered, than answers that can't be questioned." Richard Feynman

bhtooefr

  • Older than Moses
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4,180
  • ⌘-⌥-⌃-N

The Dutch-style frame locks are certainly quite convenient the way they're set up, but they're not at all secure.

They'll keep honest people honest, but if someone's setting out to steal a bike, the bike is gone quickly, even a 50 pound Dutch bike. So, you need to lock it to something, not just itself.
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16 ... 21   Go Up